La Fenice and Judy

Ponte Bridge from Venice to San Francisco

http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v374/judgo/
My Italy photos are on photobucket until I put them also on Flickr. I am completing the Judy Here in Venice blog since Im not there. I am here. Starting new blog
http://jathome.blogspot.com
I learned lot about travel and I will start the blog about what people should know who travel out of country simply with 1- 2 Stars not 4 star version which is like you never left home.
I got my last box from Poste Italiano. I made the transition back quite well. In some ways I am glad to be home maybe 70%. You need something Special to adjust to any transition. For me its return to SF Bay Club - swim and weights and the challenge of rebuilding my strength.
I decided to study Italian and return in 08 probably would stay in Florence for few months.
I planted the seeds I got in Florence - lavendar, basil, mint and only lavender is growing.
I put my photos into three small albums I carry and Im doing one of my collage boxes on Italy. Thats become my artistic expression. Also brought in Rothko Sacrifice poster from Peggy Guggenheim place for frame - that is a marvelous painting. I honestly think I miss most Peggy Guggenheim museum collection.
Something I read in book by John Berendt - City of Falling Angels on Venice that its city of magic, mystery and ?
What a marvelous experience and I do believe some of what I do know will come from there like a source. My work is merely a path and that is the most obvious benefit from Venice. Nothing that happens there or doesnt happen has any impact on me and my well being. Its so irrelevant.
I think I will close very soon this blog. I just realized about the seeds - thats what I brought home seeds not just basil, lavender, mint - seeds its too early to tell what will grow. I am very happy about the gifts I gave to people from there.

At Airport

Wednesday May 16

I almost did not get on the plane and now Im at Venice Marco Polo airport with 2 boarding passes for the planes. I knew I would have a problem when United website didn’t have my flight connected to my United mileage+. I wrote emails to United and US Air and made phone calls. Nobody gave me cause for concern just me and my instinct. I will deal with United when I return. Some young man here at Marco Polo Airport working for US Air helped me a lot! Another person before him gave me no hope. When he told me I might not be able to get on board I would have paid for a ticket. I think I will write something about all the pitfalls with travel and this is one - free miles and the airline puts you on another airline! Do not do that unless the source airline gives you a ticket. What he explained is that the airlines dont communicate. Anyway Im on my way - plane leaves 90 mins to Philadelphia So its 707 to SFO. Also I have my bags with me.
Once again security took my yogurt like a terrorist would have yoghurt. Anyway a small sacrifice.
Coming here yesterday really helped since with these 2 heavy bags not good to be walking around looking for US Air and bus #15.
This was such a wonderful experience all of it! It will take a while to absorb it be with it… I am very grateful for this gift from many people. I brought back many gifts and I hope they contribute to their lives.

Movies in Mestre

Tuesday May 16 evening

Tonight was unexpected here in Mestre
Looking for place for dinner in this Piazza I walk past cinema and see La Vie en Rose poster and I knew it was about Edith Piaf – I read about it and I don’t think its in US. So I found small place with meat and cheese and I got nice rice salad with no meat or cheese and bread and water and saw this wonderful wonderful movie. The lady who played her is superb Marion Cottilard and I am sure it was Piaf music. What a wonderful story about her life. I read about her great love for this boxer Marcel. Of course although it’s a French film - it was in Italian except for her music and if it was French they did Italian subtitles. I think this is very interesting and says something about Italian culture – in my country our foreign films are always in their language – rarely is anything dubbed.
I went Saturday to apartments where Richard Wagner lived in whats now Venice casino. He had great difficulty having his operas played there in his lifetime. It was done tho a few days after his death – The Ring Cycle. Mostly I think the Italians want it their way and that includes their language. Their movie theatres don’t show any coming attractions – tho this one did have some ads and downstairs there was stand with some food. Popcorn?
I leave tomorrow and when I get my boarding pass I will be very pleased!
I will see this movie in US in French. It was wonderful to see Depardieu again – he was the man who discovered her – Charles Leplee
http://www.edithpiafmovie.com/

http://www.edithpiafmovie.com/

The movie opens in June in few cities in US – also called La Mome. Even if you don’t know Edith Piaf – see the movie – so many women stars have a lot of tragedy in their lives – including Britney Spears

Challenges

Tuesday 15 May 2007

Now here is my experience with the airport and the boarding pass I don’t have yet. I get on a local bus and realize I don’t have tik and driver doesn’t take cash. The hotel gave me a small map showed me where to get bus and I asked where it returns and that’s it – nothing extra with information. Like how to get a tik and what bus to get back. So Im on bus and it said to Airport or Aeroporto – and still Im not sure where Im going or how to return. Then Im watching and see sign to Aeroporto so I know its going. I get there and of course its same Marco Polo Airport I came to last month. I find someone with English and I have to go upstairs and there I am and no US Air no United open. Someone tells me they have no flights today and sends me to another place – this smart lady explains I cant get boarding pass if US Air isn’t open and she tells me where they are tomorrow so I walk and I find US Airways of course closed.
Remind me never again to fly United and to finish up my miles with them!
Anyway nothing I can do so time to move on but how and where and I have no bus tik. So I go to the same place where I got boat tik into Venice and next to it says bus to Mestre. He says its different than my bus #15 (and more money) so now I am trying to find out where to buy 2 bus tiks on #15 and I go round and round. Someone helps me and I get there to the right booth and I have my tiks and then I go outside and find place with #15. Waiting a young couple speak English and ask if they need tiks and I tell them yes and direct them. That felt good to help someone not go thru my experience. The bus comes – I get on and validate my tik and they too. And then I figure out my stop. I made progress altho no boarding pass.
So tomorrow morning I take #15 to Aeroporto and at least I know where to get my boarding pass. So on to the next challenge and then I am on my way home. And of course I am intending to take on my bags.
That’s it and its 6pm here so Im going out.
I was thinking on bus coming back here that I wish I could start this trip again knowing what I know. There were so many issues and problems to solve. And yet I managed it all – the biggest regret of course is my carelessness losing Pentax and zoom lens. However maybe it had to happen to wake me up to pay attention. Always I have a lot of different important things with me like passport and different kinds of money and credit cards and other camera and of course the keys. I lost a book and that’s all. No phone was a definite issue and I knew that coming here – just the alternative was too costly for month. I could have made that work better – I got from
http://www.cloncom.com
800 europe # and pin however what I bought was not for pay phone and everything outside is pay phone and doesn’t take coins. Looking back the issue with credit cards blocked I overreacted. I reacted cause of cards blocked and not able to call
Here is what I think about travel in another country when you are not in a Bubble of Protection as if you hadn’t left US – any issues you have about control will emerge. You don’t have the usual control and that’s a fact when you are in another country not speaking language and without a guide. You have to navigate and that begins with Relax and then you can think things through how to solve this on your own .... after you let go...
I know someone with a lot of money and many free miles and his job ended and he probably wont get another one – his life is spent in Starbucks near his home. That’s safe and secure and he keeps the control. And the world in which he lives is very small.
It takes courage to step outside the box

Arrival in Mestre

Tuesday 15 May
Im in Mestre waiting to get into room – I left Venice about hour ago – early morning I finish packing and went to few of my “places” and bought this Italian Tarot Deck I wanted. So its my second Italian deck! As usual the cards are quite amazing. This deck is I Tarocchi dei Segretti. Its beautiful, and explanations are in English and Italian so it helps me learn language. Other deck I got in Trieste is from Milan and it’s the traditional deck Marseille. I am using it. With this one I asked question about the deck for me and I got reversed Emperor. Beautiful card showing man in his full power a ruler. Of course he is reversed since Im woman. I got Empress card from other deck about Whats next for me in Italy and she came up as Current Situation – She was not reversed. So it’s the full cycle.
The new deck helped me to move on cause I was feeling down this morning.
Anyway my two bags are packed and the main one is very very heavy. Also since United put me on US Air I have problem getting boarding pass and I think I will go to airport today. It was Very Smart for me to come to Mestre today rather than leave from Venice tomorrow.
I went from apartment after leaving keys in door and note for Guiseppe Scarpa whose office was across and he owns these buildings and we don’t speak same language yet we communicated. It just said Ciao It was very difficult for me to leave there and I did.
Now I have to deal with this boarding pass issue so I am going to airport today. I wanted to get photos on
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v374/judgo
It wasn’t easy to get here also – had to get this heavy luggage with me on vaporetto to bus station Piazzale Roma then to bus #4 with my bags on floor – the driver and one person in bus said it goes there to Piazza Ferretto – and one person said no. I decided the driver knows. So Im on this bus standing with bags on floor and glad to see hes following signs to Mestre. Then and here comes my Angel again – I ask a lady and she and her husband tell me they are going there and I understood. So we get off soon after I see this sign Hotel vivit with arrows. I follow them and it’s a walk and my bags are heavy – thank G_d for weight lifting. So I keep following them and it winds and I would never have found this without them! Then we arrive. It’s a Piazza and I don’t see Vivit so I go to these men and ask in what I think is Italian if they know Vivit – I use Cognosce and this man is really outraged at my language and I understand him as he says I should speak Italian and he only speaks it and then he calls me “Loco”. Meanwhile since I know this doesn’t mean anything I see Vivit sign and he is still ranting on calling me “Loco”.
That’s my experience coming here. Its okay place – now I have to deal with US Airways and a boarding pass for tomorrow.
More later…

Venice Reflects

Days and Evenings in Venice

Monday 14 May 2007

Sunday I went to that marvelous Peggy Guggenheim collection for third time – its my favorite here and I so enjoyed her art – that’s really now Our Art. Then nearby is that marvelous Accademia that houses most of the Venetian art that’s mostly religious and I walked in expecting to pay and it was free cause this is their Cultural Week. Guggenheim tho is private collection not free. I loved seeing all the art in both. Then I moved on knowing Im almost leaving. Went to few quarters where I got lost and then found.
This is my last day here almost and its Monday. I will leave tomorrow early afternoon after I hope I print out my boarding pass. Its United and they booked me on US Air so there may be a problem with the boarding pass.
I started the packing and sent yet another box thru FedEx.
Today I was feeling badly about leaving and just walking here and there. Also last night I finished that great story Death in Venice by Mann. I asked for something to happen for me something special. I had seen these kaleidoscopes in a good mask store. Venice has I think hundreds of stores selling these masks and most are tourist shops and the masks are mass produced by some molds and its plastic and not hand painted. Anyway this store I knew was real and I bought the kaleidoscopes for my nephews girls. I was not looking for a mask. Then I look down and theres a box saying 50% Sconto and I can never resist a discount. And there in the box is this gorgeous pink mask with some picture at the top. And its reduced from 60 euros. I wanted it and price is right – yet here I just cleared out space in my luggage to take with food and gifts. Now I have to deal with a mask and I did!
Early this morning it was beautiful and I went to San Marco waiting for American X and FedEx and I was able to sit at the tables of the expensive and famous cafes – Florian, Quadri, Levanta cause they weren’t opened! Tonight I may just go there and sit with an espresso that costs probably ten bucks.
I realized yesterday that I mastered all the ins and outs of life in Venice that are the basics - I can handle most any situation now even make phone calls and travel by traghetto and vaporetto and buy groceries and use my Mac ......
That’s all for now.

La Felice Teatro in Venice after Concert

Food and Music

May 13
Early morning breakfast by a Canal

I went last night to La Felice Theatre It was magical evening. Excellent conductor and I think he is German - Herbert Soudant and they did two Schubert Overture D major 590 and Luciano berio and Berlioz Trista and Overture B Cellini. He talked to us and I was as high up as you can go in that marvelous theatre so I didnt hear well and he told us to listen to two things and one was poetry of the music. At intermission we all went into the Café that is called Dante Room and there is very old painting of Dante that was uncovered after the fire. The system there is you pay for what you want and then give paper to one of the women working and they give you champagne, panini sandwich – all meat, or cappuccino or espresso and one woman is working that machine and its Illy coffee. Some people are at tables so they get the table service. I give someone my receipt for espresso and really I was amazed when I got it. This city really could benefit from some consultants setting up systems In grocery stores they keep all cash in metal box and end of day count it and do tally on their registers. Anyway the evening was marvelous and the music was superb – excellent orchestra, conductor and chorus
Im sitting outside apartment by open door onto canal watching as water taxis pass and some small motor boats. The water taxi is just like the taxi we know. As I was waiting for vaporetto after the theatre this water taxi pulls over and out came a woman then the driver maneuvered around and pulled back out and I see woman talking to well dressed man by the vaporetto stop and then he gets onto taxi and off it goes into the night waters.
Last night was Rush Hour in Venice. About 10:30 and this is by Piazza San Marco (just saw ambulance go by) and I got to the place just as one vaporetto leaving and he said 20 minutes for next. I was first there (I just saw private owned boat very nice) Well in no time there was a crowd – the boat came and there was crowd on it and then us and as we left I saw more people waiting for next one. It was packed and mostly I think Italians some tourists like me. Someone gets on with luggage and someone gets on with large baby carriage and small baby. Im outside looking at the homes on Grand Canal (Park Avenue). Then I come to my stop Ca d’Oro and Im almost home. What a wonderful evening.
Im beginning to pack and organize my packing. I sure hope I can get my bags on the planes with me! I sent back a lot – I have large bag with small gifts and that’s new and doesn’t include cheese and pasta gifts. I have 2 days what to do that’s wonderful and special …..

I haven’t talked much about one of my favorites – Food. Definitely most popular here is meat sandwiches panini , ice cream and pizza and of course espresso that they just call Café. Mostly people drink it standing at bar maybe with pastry maybe with panini sandwich like small roll or tettramini which is plain white bread without crust some are tuna and most with too much mayo.
There is marvelous fish and produce market right here – I just take this traghetto to cross Canal and that’s a gondola low end – costs about .50 and mostly you stand as two gondoliers pedal it across for the next group. Anyway the selection of fish is very fine includes salmon, tuna, swordfish, scamp, clams, mussel, octopus, calamari, Some fish I don’t think I know. Its all fresh and beautiful fish and I buy it. Yesterday I got salmon, swordfish, scampi, some kind of clam I don’t know out of the shell. I made excellent fish dish in pan with salt, red basil and fresh peas. For dinner I made rice. I had some stomach problem for few weeks and my good friend Janet told me to do watered rice. Im fine thanks to it.
Other night I went to local very popular place for dinner as a treat – not good – I order pasta w fish and he says its sardines and that set my stomach back into time warp. So I do better cooking my own meals. For breakfast I had eggplant I made with olive oil and added peas, capers and nice boiled potatoes with salt and basil and added some of the fish. Had that with toast. I have put together some excellent meals here just w olive oil, little salt, basil, sometimes adding anchovies, caper and olives. No cheese is my thing to keep my cholesterol good. I eat lot of rather plain bread – nothing fancy and no chocolate. Sometimes a croissant. I will buy piece of foccacio and toast it.
I found a health food store here near fish market and its really that. They sell tofu and very nice wheat breads and vitamins – I bought Calcium. Its quite popular place.
Well its time to post this blog and move on – what am I doing today Sunday?

Movie in Venice Man of Year

May 12, 2007
Movie

I went to see Luomo di Anni – Man of Year last night starring Robin Williams expecting to hear English. First the theatre does not sell any food – just machines with soda and I think candy – no popcorn! Got in and the movie is dubbed and there is Christopher Walken speaking Italian and then comes Robin himself. At first I thought to ask for refund cause not what I expected. As it continued I did understand a few words here and there and you know Robin Williams is brilliant and he doesn’t have to say anything to convey himself. His manager Walken gets sick and they rush him to hospital and I understood Emphysema. The story is that Tom Dobbs a comedian is elected president and a subplot with Laura Linney who I think works for company in Silicon Valley that managed the voting machines. It gets scary when her company is out to get her cause she knows the machines were rigged. I think what happened that he won was mistake. All the candidate names have double letters. Anyway it’s a very good film and I think he should have got oscar nomination. When I come home Im studying the language.
Now Saturday morning. Im going out to market, post office. My FedX box arrived in my home. So I want also to use phone (that’s a challenge) to thank Grace the manager of my building for handling all my boxes.

Friday in Burano and Torcello and Venice

May 11 Friday
Yesterday I was believing it was a day earlier and that was good except it wasn’t real. I leave Venice on Tuesday for Mestre cause I think its easier to get from there to airport and I leave Italy Wednesday. So the question becomes what to do that’s really special in the next few days? I got ticket to concert at la Felice Opera House that was rebuilt after fire in 95. Its very beautiful place and that’s definitely special. Tonight I have reservation for very good restaurant here in my area Volvant and that’s special cause I cook and eat here in the apartment. I have been buying some gifts and still more to buy. And I want to go to Treviso that’s close to here by train. It’s a small city on water. I know I will return to Peggy Guggenheim and Accademia. Ah maybe I will go to one of the expensive places on St Marks for a coffee or to Harrys Bar or to Gritti Palace for breakfast and sit outside.
I woke this morning and thanked G-d for the beauty of this trip that is slowly and strongly coming to an end.
I had to navigate thru some difficult water here and I did. Everything has worked out exceeding expectations – except for my mistake at SFO losing my camera and lens. At least I was sensible to bring the second camera.
Well its Friday morning and Im leaving – I have to call this number 10am to reserve for tomorrow morning to see the rooms of Richard Wagner at Vendramin Palace that’s now Casino. And I have a pass – I should go there tonight. – that would be special and I could get dressed in my white lace dress.
I got on a boat to the islands near Venice this morning – to Burano known for the lace and to Torcello that has Byzantine church originally built in 800 – mosaics including magnificent mosaic of Last Judgement. I felt such a sense of awe there.
I really enjoyed boat rides – reminded me of being kid on Staten Island Ferry.
Im back in Venice and after this I will get ready for tonight – after dinner I will go to Robin Williams movie Man of the Year L'Uomo do L'Annee
I am okay about leaving on Tuesday – sort of okay…

Trieste Italy

May 9, 2007
In Trieste
Returned on train from day in Trieste – walked to the synagogue and it was closed for visit. Went to Roman Theatre – some really old buildings now businesses like Post Office that was Palace palazzo. Its busy city and small and only saw a section. Then there it was Caffe Trieste same name as my place I like at home started by people from Trieste – Papa Gianni and his wife 50 years ago. Anyway move on, bought Parmeggiano Formaggio and fresh pasta for gifts. Got map at some hotel – a must in any new place.
Saw lots of small shops selling inexpensive clothing hanging on outside and similar things inside for girls and ladies. Many of them had these red Chinese paper lanterns. Then I realized all these stores are owned by Chinese and I don’t know if they wanted that or is it required by the city??
Went to lunch at bar near fragments of Roman Theatre. With very good Insalata Mista – lettuce, tuna, corn, tomatoes very simple except what was different is this salad was half the price of what I pay in Florence or Venice. That’s the difference when you are in a city that doesn’t feed on tourism.
Very few tourists in Trieste.
Returning to Train Station by bus we passed the same Caffe Trieste and I was early so I was going there of course and it was not so easy to find. I was so happy to be there and I can now say I drank espresso at Caffe Trieste in San Francisco and in Trieste. That is cool!
Clock is ticking and after today its 6 days.
Yesterday I went to Palazzo Grassi finally to see new modern art exhibit collection of Francois Pinault. And it was just marvelous so fresh and creative – about 10 artists and I don’t think any are Italian and most American. It really inspired me to continue with my collage in boxes.
As I went in there was a youngish couple man and woman and she is blind. You would ask how she can go to museum.. Later I saw them in front of an art piece and I knew they bought the guidebook and he was reading to her. That is love – she can see the art through his eyes and with her ears.

Food Bouquet Featuring Eggplant

To Venice from Florence Firenze

May 7 2007
Back Home

I was sorry to leave Florence and I was so happy to return to Venice. Its not easy to travel around – you go with as little as possible cause unless you do taxis you are carrying it all like a turtle. I was there 4 days and there was lots of rain – on 3rd day I was so happy to buy a black tee shirt – Fila. New clothing! Also I switched hotels 3 times. What I saw there its magnificent art. Its Florence. Its more cosmopolitan and current than Venice. A store sold ginger. A sushi restaurant absolutely outrageous prices. Cars, bicycles, loud scooters. Very interesting city. Their signature meal is that rare Florentine bisteak and couple next to me other night has huge plates filled with bisteak. I am sure it was good and its not for me.
I had to buy another train tik to get back to Venice. Couldnt use mine that I got online unless I left day earlier. No Way!
After lugging my bags from train station about 20 min walk I was thrilled to be in my apartment and just did a Stop change start and was outside on Sunday afternoon. I gave myself a day away from Art.
Decided time to unload send things home and get ready for return. I do not want to go home and next Tuesday I leave for Mestre by bus cause that gets me closer to airport for Wednesday return.
Today was a great day in Venice. Saw this marvelous exhibit Sargent in Venice and Im reading book City of Fallen Angels by John Berendt and he writes about Curtis family and their Pallazo Barbero. There was painting by Sargent of the Pallazo and the grandparents who bought it in 1800s and moved from US. I bought print of it. It’s a marvelous book
Then today took that boat from one side of canal to tother Traghetto where I stand for the ride and came upon outside by fish market preparation for a big party. Went to my café and watched and they had these marvelous Food Bouquets and it was grand. It was a gala party for an American company that is connected to food that’s all I know. Couldn’t slip in cause you had to have this tag. Took some photos and then I was stopped by their guards.
I had some difficulty calling US Airways about my return flights and I couldnt - they answered email dont you just love technology? I can travel with cheese and dried pasta!

Tomorrow is another day of 8 more ….
Today I went somewhere and actually returned taking a shortcut

May 6 - Mistakes and Good Moves

May 6 Sunday
Leaving Florence for Venice

This is about my mistakes and my good moves since I left home on 17th for Italy

Without a doubt the biggest mistake was leaving my new Pentax digital slr plus zoom lens in the bathroom on a hook

Should have listened to Carl and not bought train tiks for Florence in US. When I leave today I have no seat reservation cause they cant replace an international ticket (that I bought online in US)

Euro travelers checks bought too many and couldn’t use them for my apartment the biggest expense

Not enough vitamins for the 30 or so days

Too much upset with credit cards that were blocked by ATM

Should have studied Italian

No binoculars and that’s essential especially in churches

The good move was bringing my Mac with all its parts including the card reader for camera

Took my bags on the plane!

I brought second camera digital Casio

I sent extra clothing, books, small useful things cant get here thru FedX

Since losing camera have kept everything except for Venice travel book that I replaced

Brought Palm and charger for the database of information

Got the adapter plugs for Europe very important

I didn’t buy or rent cell phone and didn’t buy the phone I almost bought at Vodaphone

Got from Cloncom.com European 800 number and pin so if I can get to regular phone can call US

My Blog and photos in Photobucket – my journal

I came with Euros coins and bills

Lot of research for this trip

All bills at home paid in advance for the month

Got wonderful neighbor to take care of my plants and two other friends too

Renting apartment in Venice with kitchen of course

The small bag I bought from shop in castro is perfect for everyday and the small light backpack I bought in NYC – I go everywhere with these.

Im in excellent physical shape from Bay Club so I can walk many miles and good walking shoes

Gym in Venice

Yesterday I bought deck of Tarot cards from Milan

That I came to Italy

San Croce Cross Restoration not Cimambue

I Love Florence

May 5, 2007
The Lure of Florence

Here is my new happenings here
I decided not to leave this morning – more places to see and walking to do and it’s a good city to buy gifts. In rain went to train station to change ticket. That can be very intimidating for us Americans – since I bought tik in US its international and they cant issue me new one so I get on train tomorrow after Validating it in yellow machine and pay conductor 8 euro. Then my hotel was booked and so I return to the other one this morning
I had too many pictures not uploaded to
http://smg.photobucket.com/albums/v374/judgo/
So with my card reader left behind in Venice I decided to get another and went to this small store near station and I got it. Came back later and got my photos onto my Album.
I was in magnificent San Croce Church in morning and everyone who was anyone then was buried there so you walk over many burial places on marble floor and they have monuments to Dante, Galileo, Michelangelo.. When they had the 96 flood much was damaged especially this famous Cimabue Cross – I saw it and its still damaged and its beautiful. Lots of marvelous Giotto. Whats interesting you see in churches is remains of painted walls.
Went to Michelangelo Casa and that was wonderful. Of course. His brother did a lot of work with it to pay tribute to him. Its amazing place. His work is unmatched as a sculptor.
Walking along I mistakenly entered a building thru the exit Uscita and I was in Bargello – state museum of sculpture so I walked around and then got into shop and almost couldn’t get out cause I had no ticket and then I was out. Wonderful sculptures – my mother studied sculpture and then stopped it when she was a mother – may have been her downfall to give it up.
I had wonderful lunch at Casa Michelangelo and the first place I found with simple tuna salad. Sandwiches are very popular and all meat and cheese
A few nights ago I saw this big crowd waiting to get into Il Latini restaurant and I decided to return if I could find it. So last night I got there after uploading photos and I got in. It has all these hams hanging and that’s a reason I almost didn’t go – so glad I didn’t let that stop me – They put me and a young man at a table and I see his book in English so I start to talk. So glad I did – he is from Puerto Rico here for conference and hes environmental engineer studied in US – he came early to rent car with friends and travel for day and he was just delightful person. Then lady at table next to us - and we are all close together 3 tables - is from Cuba and they are talking. It was incredibly popular restaurant with 3 rooms and a growing crowd outside to enter – no reservations. They just bring you the food – the waiter spoke Spanish and probably various languages – I got my meal without meat or cheese tho they specialize in meat. Man at front with slicing machine cutting proscuitto and hand cutting salami. Very popular food in Florence is rare bifsteak. They like their meat. So I had first course wonderful barley salad with delicate herbs, celery, tomato and then a large piece of roasted rabbit and spinach and espresso. The bill was the most amazing – 20 euro – about $23. people waiting to get in as I left and said goodbye to my friend.
One last memory was seeing this Pallazo Borghese as I was walking and I go in and realize I am very lucky to get in cause this isnt a tourist site. Lots of activity - its mostly rented by Rotary Club and many many magnificent rooms including this incredible dining room all set up for an event. Libraries. Marvelous doors. Everything restored and beautiful. Then after about 10 minutes someone comes to me and asks Who are you with? and I say "Im just walking and looking". "Its not private". Then I am leaving and he doesnt follow me I think cause hes very busy with this event. I walk thru some other rooms and see him again ask for exit and I leave. What an experience!

That’s all for now ….

Mood of Florence

Well this morning I called my friend Carol in Portland area – and that was another amazing happening cause I have no phone and the 800 number and pin I got doesn’t work on cell phone or pay phone and my room has no real phone. Anyway she told me its Friday and I thought it was Thursday. I used hotel phone to dial 800 number and enter my pin and there was Carol in US talking to me.

Yesterday in Florence I saw the marvelous David by Michelangelo – never fails to move me.
Then I moved to the current hotel Bretagna where I stayed in 97. It’s a part of what was a palace so its special. The room is very tiny and bathroom is outside and the price is low. And there is wireless internet in the main room where I am looking out on Arno River. So glad I brought here my Mac
I walked a lot yesterday around the city and went over bridge to different area less commercial. Florence has so many restaurants and top designer stores. Theres a lot of money here now. Its nice to see so many people using bikes people of all ages and these bikes are not the fancy ones. Someone biking in rain and I don’t think it has brakes and shes also talking on her phone. I got few art books sent to friends so I discovered post office. And there was a small market there selling plants.
I just realized there is a market here today have to find it.
Going to breakfast here at Bretagna so will write tonight after this days adventure.
Had a good dinner last night expensive – the owner of trattoria spoke English and was able to give me healthy choices – no meat, no cheese – very unusual in Florence.

Man on Street in Venice

May 3 In Florence

May 3 Thursday
In Florence with Angel

So there I was at this ticket place near one of the greatest museums Uffizi Gallery and you buy tickets w reservation only here for about 10 places w art. I wait and she tells me I can only get ticket for Friday afternoon and I say I will just buy a tik no reservation and she says no. I walk away amazed at the Europe of 2007 and this man on line stops me and says he has extra tik and reservation for now and to wait. So we walk to Uffizi and he explains he does tours. We get there and everywhere are lines confusing cause all different. He gets me on line and I buy ticket – same price of 9.5 Euro – and he stays with me to be sure I get in cause tik is for 12 and its 2p. As I walk in - after hearing people say you can wait on line for more than 3 hours – I feel once again Someone is watching over me here. The museum is marvelous for Renaissance Art - - as I walked in I cried to be in the presence of what I so love. Isnt that what makes life meaningful and rich? The man who guided me said I may have also helped him cause I told him to see Cezanne in Florence exhibit – he could definitely take people to that – it was easy to get in there and just wonderful.
It rained yesterday and warm temp dropped and I have a cold – so I decided to get a warm sweater – without paying too much. Part of Florence is like 5th avenue NY with all the top designers stores. I came upon a place Blunauta and walked in – she speaks English and took out from back sweaters reduced and I got what I wanted really nice wool and cashmere half price for $35.
I am learning here being here what is really important and those things that make the Ego go round and round are not
This morning I change hotels and have reservation to see the David so I am hoping to leave my bags here and go…

In Florence with wireless and Art

May 2
life from the view of Venice

These are the amazing things happened last few days –
• First I am changing style of blog
• Got on all my trains just fine
• Took wrong stop in Firenze Florence and next train to Firenze Santa Maria Novella station came in few minutes
• Found right people to direct me to hotel in Pisa – that was long walk
• Went to pay bill in Pisa – it was originally 85 euro – he asked me for 50 and said “discount”
• Almost all of Pisa closed yesterday for holiday of 1 May except near the leaning Tower and I found place for wireless internet walking into 3 star hotel that let me use it free
• Costs almost 15 euro - $20 to go into Leaning Tower and so I just walked around there – awesome experience despite the circus now there selling anything and everything
• Paid to use bathroom at Tower area
• Had marvelous dinner at small café last night and good low price
• Missed rain yesterday
• Got piccolo pink umbrella at train station in Firenze and its raining
• Got to the hotel easily and wireless internet for me in Florence Firenze
• No espresso yesterday
• I am in Florence for 3 days cause dropped one day in Pisa before getting there and really one day in Pisa is enough.
• That’s all for now

Judy at The Gritti Palace

Life without Car

April 30
Leaving for Florence and Pisa
Early morning trains to Florence and Pisa – walk to train station preparing for travel
When walk on Strada Nova main street in this area of my apartment mostly residents and always very busy – Italians relate to each other – mother and child, adult and older parent, father and child, friends – relationships matter. Friends of all ages relate and talk and share. People are at ease with each other. Often I see couples kiss some are very young.. What I see is they enjoy each other.
At night people walk on Strada Nova always together. People sit out at osteria at restaurants with dinner, with drink, with coffee always together. Early eve children are out playing with parents nearby – on skates, on two wheel scooter very popular with children, no skateboards, only children on bicycles, no motor vehicles (except boats) , some games with ball – what I see is their enjoyment and they are children playing. Lots of laughter and crying lots of emotion. What they eat mostly is pizza and gelato. Unfortunately lots of men smoke and some women. I don’t think there is any age requirement for drinking cause very young buy wine at grocery store. People mostly women buy lot of bread pane – the bars sell panini sandwich mostly meat and tettramini half sandwich without crust and all thin white bread. Espresso is mostly at the bar standing maybe with pastry pasticcia and if you sit at table if the place has such you pay double and they bring it to you. Sometimes it is overflowing with tourists and streets are narrow and you can barely walk. One place today everything was stopped due to the traffic and I went to another place. Lots of tourists take gondola ride from 2 to 6 or 7. I think its about hour for over one hundred and more at night. Most of the food we know you can get in supermarket – cant get ginger, scallions, bean sprouts, bok choy, matzo meal, oats and most other grains, deli meats, dim sum, papaya, horseradish, kasha varniska, knish, sauerkraut, pumpernickel, black bread, rye bread, lavender, pickle, ketchup (?), - I saw two MacDonald and one Burger king and no Peets or Starbuck. Supermarket has clever system to weigh produce – scale has picture of everything and you place item on it and press the picture and number and then comes receipt on sticky paper. No muffins, no buffet..
That leads me to morning – I wanted to go to The hotel here Gritti Palace and front door or really side door on grand canal opens to water taxi and gondola so that’s how most people arrive and they are very wealthy and probably famous. I walked in and it was a museum to me – just magnificent with incredible paintings including painting of Doge Gritti – it was a Palace. Then I saw restaurant outside overlooking grand canal and decided to go. My bill probably broke all records and they had buffet – I got espresso of course, yoghurt and banana and sat for hour not really thinking just watching the view of grand canal and some of the people. I took photo of English couple near me and he took my photo. The bill was 12 euro = $13+ tip.
Later in day went to Teatro Fenice that burned completely in 95 and saw the new Teatro – very fake beautiful.
Got room for first night in Florence using book in store and phone card. So I leave tomorrow for one day in Pisa and 3 in Florence.
Had some very disturbing news about reality – a tanker crashed and burned on road to Bay Bridge – road I use to go to work – it’s a miracle nobody injured except driver who did something wrong. It’s a disaster affecting thousands of commuters – I sat there reading and worrying and then I just decided not to worry about it now. Meanwhile at the internet store two women making phone calls cause had no cash and credit cards would not work at ATM just like me last week. I gave her some euros and she didn’t want to take it and I insisted. I told them about my situation and what I learned.
For anyone traveling here – I just realized should have told her to go to Amex that I discovered today! – it is not smart to rely on the credit cards or the ATM cards for cash – you need Plan B.
I had a lot of dreams last night – one that I lost my car – took it to work and when I left I couldn’t remember where and I forgot to write down where so I tried to get someone to help me and everyone was too busy. Then I began to remember just general area – and to get there had to cross water and there was lot of water pools. Saw a woman w baby carriage crossing water and I did and I was okay. Still I wanted to find my car
Then had dream about lots of people doing special walk and they were all using these two walking sticks – this was to acknowledge them and unite them as special people. I saw this and realized that’s why there were so many people here with these walking sticks in Venice.